A break in the smoke, a sail and a splash

My uncle Ken Holland was a crab fisherman in the Bering Sea from the early 1960s through the 1980s. He always told me that in fishing, you “plan for the worst and hope for the best.” That’s this sailing season in a nutshell. We got lucky and got a mooring buoy in June, got a few sails in, and then the Dixie Fire and then the Caldor Fire hit, blanketing the lake and nearly our whole state of Nevada in thick smoke. At our home in Reno, we saw air quality indexes over 300, and closer to the fires, we saw numbers in the 400s, 500s and even 700 for a brief period. Today, after nearly a month of not sailing, I saw a break in the smoke with some westerly winds hitting around 4 p.m., so I rocketed up to the lake and found our beautiful Splendido covered in ash—inside as well as out.

I primed the Perkins, fired her up, and headed out to the nearly empty lake. Out past the wind shadow of the west shore, I picked up some nice breezes that went as high as 21 knots and blasted northward at 6.2 knots til the gusts softened. I tacked near Sunnyside and blasted back down toward McKinney Bay, catching the Blackwood Canyon winds and putting Splendido through her paces. I was hoping the strong breeze would blow away all of the ash, but alas, our beautiful girl still needs a good vacuum and a scrub, which I’ll be happy to do another day.

As the sun set in the west at about 7:20 p.m., I got her back on the hook and buttoned her up as the pink glow settled over Tahoe. I’ve been filming a bit on my GoPro, so I decided to take a plunge with the camera. The photo above is a frame from that very refreshing splash over the side. I’m keen to milk every last bit of sailing out of what remains of our summer here at 6,223 ft. above sea level, and praying for cooler temperatures and lots of rain to quench all the fires.

Fair winds and smooth sailing. DB

Splashin’ around the old sailing grounds

Debbie and I headed out on Saturday, July 17 to visit Calawee Cove at D.L. Bliss State Park and Sugar Pine State Park on the way back. On our way down south, we encountered (yet again) a couple of SUP paddlers about two miles offshore with rising winds. We hailed them to make sure they were OK, and asked if they were fatigued, as we’re always happy to pick folks up so we don’t have to read about them in the papers the next day. They said they were fine but a bit lost, so we pointed out Bliss, Meek’s and Sugar Pine to help orient them, and pulled in the mainsheet to get underway again.

We threw down the hook in 15 feet of water at D.L. Bliss, which was (predicably) a parking lot of speedboats on this warm afternoon.

Debbie made some sandwiches and I poured her a glass of wine, and we sat out under our instant sunshade for a couple of hours, watching the neighboring boats and merrymakers having fun.

I had the binoculars out and was keeping an eye on the paddleboarders we’d met earlier. After about 2-1/2 hours, they came straggling in to the beach, safe and sound.

To the southeast, the Tamarack Fire began sending up a new plume of white and gray smoke, and we knew that eventually that smoke would cover the lake. We decided to weigh anchor and head north, so I moved the traveler to port and we sailed on a bowline up to the south end of Sugar Pine, where we dropped the hook in about eight feet of water. The crowds were thinning out and the wind was tailing off, so I took the opportunity to replace three busted sail-slides on the lower mainsail. Evidently, the winter and long layup had made them fragile, so it was well worth the effort. Afterward, I took a quick plunge to cool off, and finally felt like summer sailing season had begun in earnest.
Our “secret” cove on the south end of Sugar Pine State Park.

Fair winds and smooth sailing! DB

A fun sail and sandwiches at Sugar Pine State Park

Now that we’ve got the thermostat issue worked out (thank you, Jamie Filbin!), Debbie and I got out for an afternoon sail in 16-21 knots on an ESE heading to Sugar Pine State Park. The breeze—at 90º F.—was as warm as I’ve ever felt at Tahoe, and even in the gusts, Splendido sailed like a thoroughbred as we made our way down to the area just north of the Hellman-Ehrman Mansion. An enterprising American robin had made a massive nest in the anchor locker, which I’d only partly cleaned out a few weeks ago, so I let the entire anchor line out and cleaned out the rest of the hay, grass, feathers and dirt that had accumulated in the locker. Debbie broke out some yummy caprese sandwiches on thick crusty bread, and we lolled about for about an hour watching the changing light, sipping on Lagunitas IPNAs ( a refreshing new favorite N/A beer) and munching on Kettle chips.

The sail back was epic, with Tahoe’s classic canyon winds kicking in for the final boost toward home. I was struck by how few boats are on Lake Tahoe during the week, even at the height of summer. We counted four sailboats besides ourselves and only a handful of speedboats, so it felt like he had the whole place to ourselves—a welcome relief after the rock-and-rolling craziness of July 4th weekend.

Fair winds and following seas. DB

Sneaking up for a sail after work

I start my open-water scuba course this weekend, so I wanted to sneak in a sail with Debbie before classes start. Last night, Debbie picked me up after work and we zipped up to Splendido for a balmy evening’s sail around McKinney Bay. Winds were in the 11-17 knot range becoming light, so we had a fun sail and were just able to ghost back to the mooring buoy, where we caught the hook on the last puff of the evening and didn’t have to turn on the engine.

It is supposed to be hella hot here over the next four days (102-106 in Reno, about 10-12 degrees cooler in Tahoe), so we were eager to escape the heat before the weekend starts. I’ll be sailing a lot next week (summer break for me), so we’ll try to find some adventures and hopefully some good photos to post.

Fair winds and following seas. DB

A Taste of Tahoe on a Holiday Weekend

This could be a story about changing out a thermostat on a 1993 Perkins diesel (and how it took two strapping midlifers 48 hours to tear down the engine in a wildly rocking boat on a busy Fourth of July weekend), but to hell with that. This is a story about Tahoe’s unexpected delights—places, pizza, tacos and thirst-quenching libations.

The good news is, we replaced the wonky thermostat. The better news is, my buddy Jamie and I discovered some Tahoe treasures, including a front-row seat at Chambers Landing Grill for an awesome sunset. I tucked into a veggie pizza and a Coors N/A, while Jamie devoured a plate of their amazing tacos and a crisp glass of Kim Crawford sauv blanc. Chambers was hopping with relaxed familes and lots of kids running around, climbing trees and playing paddle ball on the golden sand. The food was yummy, the service was outstanding (despite the fact that we had on Eau du Boat fragrance, two-day beards and grimy boat clothes, amidst the finery of the folks around us). The setting, of course, was pure summer Tahoe: pinkish light settling over the Sierras, the scent of warm sugar pines, and the sounds of happy families sharing stories and talking with their neighbors, largely vaxxed and relaxed, a prelude to a return to normalcy.

Not gonna lie—it wasn’t hard to become a member of the Clean Plate Club at Chambers Grill.

After dinner, we made it back to Splendido and decided to sleep on the lazarettes in the open air—something I had rarely done before. The view was spectacular as the sky darkened and the Milky Way appeared.

After a great afternoon sail in balmy 14 kt. breezes, we slept out in the cockpit in sleeping bags.

I woke up about a quarter to five to absolute silence and the stars overhead fading quietly into the dawn. Jamie was out like a light, so I chilled and just watched the light come up over the lake.

About 5:45 a.m., the first water ski boat roared to life, breaking the silence and the millpond surface of the lake.

After a couple of cups of hot coffee, we rowed in and drove up to Fire Sign Café to see about breakfast. Not surprisingly, the place was packed with holiday guests, so we wandered across the street to West Shore Market and picked up provisions for the day.

Back on board, I put up the shade tent to beat the heat, then we got after swapping out the thermostat. Jamie and I both ended up getting a little “green” from the constant tossing and turning, so we alternated “coming up for air” in the cockpit. Mission accomplished, we ran a number of tests, made sure everything was tight, then buttoned her up and headed home.

I can’t wait to get back on board with Debbie and friends and get some more summer sailing in! Huge thanks to Jamie for helping wrench on the engine and sharing a classic couple of days at Lake Tahoe.

Happy Fourth of July to all who celebrate—and fair winds to you and yours. DB

The Seiche Phenomenon at Lake Tahoe

Sleeping aboard a sailboat on a calm summer night can be one of life’s simple pleasures. For me, that typically means setting out two hooks in a V-configuration, just to have that extra sense of security, and arranging sheets and halyards to minimize noise in the rigging. I flip on the masthead light and settle in, feeling the residual roll and heave you can expect when speedboats have been out on the lake all day. After an hour or so, these swells flatten out, and slumber is deep and satisfying. Until, that is, there’s a major bump in the night, and you bolt out of bed to see what’s going on.

(c) laketahoeG/The Dam Café @ Lake Tahoe, 2016.

That’s what happened last summer around Labor Day. Debbie and I were boat-camping along the west shore of Lake Tahoe when, at about 2 a.m., I felt a dramatic rise and then fall of the boat. About 8-10 seconds later, there was another. When you’re sleeping, this change really grabs your attention, because you have the sudden and somewhat unpleasant sensation of falling.

I rolled out of the aft berth and climbed up on deck. In the moonlight, I could see a set of widely spaced, two-foot swells coming our way out of the northeast. The distance between the crests seemed like about 20 or 30 yards. In my fogginess, I was wracking my brain to think what would cause these swells on this calm and windless night. I began to think that maybe there had been a localized earthquake that caused them, but a quick check of my mobile news feed shed no light on that theory.

After discussing the phenomenon with a very sleepy Debbie, I decided to bundle up with a blanket and sit on the lazarette for a while to watch and see if anything changed. For more than an hour, this line of swells kept coming, never varying in wave height or wavelength. Staring out across the water, I eventually relaxed a bit and decided to go back to bed, visions of tsunamis put to rest. But I was still curious, so the next day I did some research and discovered seiches, or standing waves peculiar to bounded bodies of water like Lake Tahoe.

I knew from listening to the news earlier that day that there were high winds predicted out over the Black Rock Desert – about 100 miles north of Lake Tahoe – as the Burning Man Festival was happening, and burners were advised to shelter from the blowing dust on the playa. Lake Tahoe is pretty big – about 22 miles long – but evidently the low pressure acted on the northeast end of Lake Tahoe and set up the standing wave known as a seiche. Here’s a beautiful video posted by The Dam Café of Tahoe City that captures the essence of Lake Tahoe’s seiches. Just knowing that the seiche phenomenon is a “thing” will help me rest a little easier.

Fair winds and smooth sailing! DB

Final Touches for a 2019 Launch

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Lane Walker – the master – at work.

We’ve had a rainier and stormier spring this year, which led to my cancelling our mid-May launch of Splendido and gave me a little more time to get her ready this year. My buddy Jamie helped me change the tires on the trailer, polish her up and put a nice coat of wax on so our 26-year old girl can shine.

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I messed up our logo when doing some gel coat repairs.

I noticed a few small chips in the gel coat this spring, likely caused by small rocks thrown up during trailering the boat down from Tahoe, so I tried my hand at gel coat repair this year. After watching a couple of YouTube™ videos, I mustered the courage to start, and found it to be a pretty interesting process – and all in all, easier than I had anticipated. One of the side effects, though, was that when I removed the protective blue painter’s tape I had placed around my gel coat repairs, I inadvertently took off some of the hand-lettering paint that my good friend Lane Walker of Solo Signs had put on about eight years ago.

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Lane Walker to the rescue.

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The man is a magician when it comes to sign painting and hand-lettering work.

In my eyes, Lane Walker is a living legend in the art of pinstriping and hand-lettering. I met him about 30 years ago when I worked for Harrah’s corporate advertising department and he worked for an outfit called Silver Dollar Signs hand-painting casino showcards and signage. After Silver Dollar closed its doors, Lane struck out on his own with Solo Signs, and has a bustling practice painting long-haul trucks and doing custom designs and pinstriping work for hotrodders, custom motorcycle embellishments, and all manner of hand-painted restoration projects.

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Perfect color matching by eye.

Watching Lane work is a joy. He hand-mixes and matches colors before your very eyes, and the accuracy is uncanny. He explained to me his collection of brushes made from the hairs of a particular Russian squirrel, and the virtues of now-banned lead paint, which flowed like a dream off his brushes and “wore like iron,” in contrast to today’s differently formulated paints.

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Lane Walker, the legend.

In about 45 minutes, Lane restored Splendido’s logo to like-new, and a quick polish and coat of wax will make her ready for launching.

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Jamie helping swap the tires on the trailer.

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Ready for launching at Obexer’s Lake Tahoe.

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Post-launch lunch at The Bridgetender in Tahoe City with Tracy Hieber.

We splashed the boat on June 21st and the launch went fine, although writing this a day after, I am sore and tired from the effort. I am grateful to Lane and Jamie and Debbie and Tracy and the folks at Obexer’s for all their help, and looking forward to sailing with all of them on the great sheet of blue water called Lake Tahoe.

Fair winds and smooth sailing! DB

Where There’s Smoke

As a sailor and as a human being, I’m concerned that the world is warming and that climate and weather patterns are changing because of that warming. There; I’ve said it. Now, I’m as guilty as anyone of not always thinking about my own carbon footprint, but one of the reasons I’ve always been drawn to sailing is because of its relatively small (when practiced conscientiously) carbon footprint.

The recent smoke from the devastating California wildfires has got me thinking about climate change, and about our role in it, and what we can do to fix it. People have lost their lives, homes, property, kin, livestock, livelihoods, and pets from the wildfires. All I’ve lost is a few weeks of sailing at what is traditionally a postcard-perfect sailing site, Lake Tahoe. But the relentless march of carbon accumulation in the atmosphere and the ever-increasing high temperatures worldwide signal that it’s high time to act.

One thing I’ve noticed over the 32 years I’ve lived here is that the water is warmer in summer at Lake Tahoe. Just two weekends ago, I was swimming in 71-degree water off of D.L. Bliss State Park. Seventy-one degrees F. Compared to 1986 when I was hypothermic after a dip in late August, today’s temperatures seem downright balmy.

I work for a major research university, and many of the scientists there that I’ve spoken to are worried. More than one has told me that climate change is real, it’s here, and its effects are outpacing even the predictions in the movie An Inconvenient Truth. One scientist told me that what’s concerning to him is that we have no models to predict what Earth’s weather will be like if our planet had ice-free poles. Think about that for a moment.

Lake Tahoe is warming at an alarming rate. In July of 2017, the average lake temperature for that month reached an all-time high of 68.4 degrees F. –  a full six degrees warmer than the July 2016 average. This data is from U.C. Davis scientist Dr. Geoffrey Schladow’s work at the Tahoe Environmental Research Center.

California’s wildfires are more explosive this year because of the drying effect warmer temperatures have had on forest and grassland fuels. That sucks for the people whose lives, homes, and property are endangered; it sucks for the massive state and federal resources (read: money) required to fight fires; and it sucks for sailors and citizens who enjoy the great outdoors or even their own back yards. Heaven help the folks who live on coral atolls, or low-lying coastal areas, like the islands in the Chesapeake Bay.

Bloomberg and NASA’s Goddard Institute for Space Studies have done an amazing job with infographics that chart the rise of greenhouses gases and the corresponding rise in global temperatures. They also look at other possible factors. In the end, it’s the carbon and methane. And it’s pretty sobering.

So, what’s a sailor or a citizen to do? There are a few things we can do: reduce our fossil fuel use. Switch to solar or wind power. Consider eating less meat. Add to the insulation in our homes. And urge our representatives to join the Kyoto Protocol and enact policies that hasten our transition to renewables. Once installed, solar and wind power plants can produce low-carbon energy for decades. As these technologies scale up, prices are converging to the point that solar and wind power is becoming cheaper than fossil fuels, and battery technologies like those produced by Tesla are helping to mitigate the storage problem.

There’s warming and smoke everywhere. It’s clearly time for the U.S. – and for each of us, individually – to lead by example, and work to put out the fire.

Fair winds and smooth sailing. DB

Season Opener Regatta on June 20th

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I’ve mentioned in earlier posts that a bunch of us sailors who sail up and down the west shore (the best shore) of Lake Tahoe have formed a free social group called Big Blue Tahoe Yacht Club. We get together for lovely dinners, plan “for fun” regattas and sailing days, raft-ups, full moon sails, and other fun stuff. On June 20th, four or five boats went out for a “regatta”/sailing day, and here are some of the shots. Oh, and that last image? That’s the simple BBTYC burgee I designed. (Can’t have a yacht club without a burgee, right?) Fair winds and smooth sailing. DB

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First Sail for 2014, Single-handed & Serene

First Sail 2014 First Sail 2014 photo 1[1]I was as excited as  a kid in a candy store to get up and actually sail this week. So, I worked through lunch on Thursday and left the office at 4 to see if I might catch a ride or two. The sky over Truckee was filled with big thunder-bumpers, so I wasn’t particularly optimistic about sailing. But, when I got to the lake, it was mostly clear, so I set about zip-tying all of the turnbuckles and taking care of the odds and ends that I hadn’t finished on my last visit. A delicate breeze came up around 6 p.m., so I motored out to the wind line and hoisted sail. To my chagrin, I had forgotten to attach the reefing lines, so there were two long ropes hanging off the back end of the boom, and all I could think of was what a mess that would be if it got gusty and I had to take in sail. So, I put her in irons, dropped the sail, and attached everything properly.

About four boats were out, dancing around a bit on the broad sheet of blue between the massive clouds to the north and also to the south of the lake. I decided to head south to visit my new friends at the Big Blue Tahoe Yacht Club, which is comprised mostly of sailors who put in and out at Obexer’s Marina. The wind picked up to where I was heading due south at 5.8 knots, so I just slathered on some sunscreen and enjoyed the relaxing sail. Splendido performed like a champ, and for a while I forgot about the depth meter whose transducer went out and the anemometer whose cups wouldn’t spin. I could tell it was blowing 10-15 mph and I knew the depth was in the hundreds of feet…Tahoe is so clear, you can see rocks way before you’d be on top of them.

I got down within a hundred yards of Cheeseburger in Paradise and Grand Cru, both sitting pretty out in front of Obexer’s, then decided to tack back north, as the sun was about to dip behind the mountains by Homewood.

About half way back, I decided to fire up the Perkins to charge the batteries, as I’d noticed #1 was almost in the yellow zone on the meter. As the boat made its way north, I did a quick check of the bilge, and noticed more water than usual flowing in. I checked the auto bilge pump, and it was working fine; now to source the leak. After poking around a bit, I found it: I hadn’t tighted the hose clamps enough on the 15 feet of new exhaust hose that I’d replaced a couple of weeks ago, and so the water in the hose was leaking out onto the hull and running down into the bilge. A few sweaty turns of the 5/16th socket wrench, and the mini deluge abated. Whew! Nothing gets your attention more than a leak on a boat. Who needs meditation when you’ve got stuff like that going on?

I kept a close eye on things once I was on the hook, leaving the engine on to continue to charge the batteries while I fluffed and buffed the boat and put everything to bed. The leaking seemed to have stopped completely, the batteries were charging, and the Perkins was humming gentlly as I went above decks and began to swing the boat port-to-starboard, to get the water into the bilge and out from under the floorboards (we’re not talking a lot of water here; less than a gallon all told. But still.). Satisfied that everything seemed OK, I buttoned up the cabin and rowed back to the beach, exhilarated after a nice sail and happy that I could find the problem and fix it. (Yay!) My wish is to get everything dialed in and ready so I can do a single-handed circumnavigation of Tahoe in late June or July. Every day on the water is another shot at working out the kinks!

Fair winds and smooth sailing! DB